The best islands in the Philippines? What to see and do in Batanes

A group of islands in the northernmost region of the Philippines is so far away that they are actually closer to Taiwan than most parts of the Philippines.

The islands are located 100 miles north of Luzon, the country’s largest and most populous island and are home to the capital Manila. However, it could not be further from the stereotypical tropical scene of the palms and white sandy beaches associated with the Philippine archipelago.

Imagine wind-swept emerald hills, dotted with cattle, strange stone towns, flower-lined paths, crowded cliffs collapsing into a deep sea of ​​collapsing waves, with white peaks and steady headlights, and strong, just like the locals themselves.

This is Batanes – a captivating and magical place that feels more like the setting of the “Outlander” story than the “Beach”.

Consisting of three main islands – Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat – which lie between the North Pacific Ocean and the South China Sea, Batanes is often hit by unforgiving typhoons that form on both bodies of water.

It is also on the Circum-Pacific Belt, better known as the Ring of Fire, and prone to frequent earthquakes, one that damaged Itbayat Island in July 2019.

Here, the earth is forged by elements and, in many ways, so are people.

There is an air of mystery that covers the indigenous population of Batanes, Ivatans. Due to its isolation, challenging climate and difficult landscape, the locals have built a society that values ​​trust and real connection.

Unlike the noisy and charming chaotic shores of the Philippines, which can feel more like a karaoke pub than an idyllic paradise, Batanes and his people are quiet, thoughtful, orderly and peaceful. Warm and sincere, Ivatans seeks sincere interaction with visitors who want to learn more about their culture.

The Ivatians live in symbiosis with nature and take care of their natural heritage with an almost spiritual fervor. They recognize the earth as a source of well-being and well-being and are firm in its sustainability.

The best example would be the absence of markets in the province; agricultural practices are designed to produce enough food for the population with a very small surplus.

Here, Christian faith and spirituality enter into daily life. The word “God” or God is used in many expressions: “Dius mamajes!” – or God will reward you is their way of saying thank you; – God damn it! – God bless you is goodbye; or simply “God?” to ask if anyone is home. Once there, visitors will usually hear “Dius mavidin!” or The Lord be with you, as guests receive.

Unlike most parts of the Philippines, Batanes is sparsely populated.

The 2015 census counted only 17,246 people, which equates to about 205 people per square mile.

There are strict measures to prevent overload, such as limiting the number of flights to islands. The area is also subject to the Batanes Responsible Tourism Act, by which the Philippine government declared the province a “responsible area of ​​cultural heritage and community ecotourism” in 2016.

As a result, travelers can expect to find small households and inns rather than branded hotels.

There is a real unity

The former residence of the late artist Pacita Abad, Fundacion Pacita is a charming guest house located on a lush grassy slope overlooking the sea.

Built in the traditional stone fashion, coupled with white adobe walls, it is strangely decorated in colorful tiles, remade furniture and vibrant works of art by Abad.

Her niece, Patsy, who can often be found walking around with a cheerful smile and a glass of wine, now runs the inn. She recently opened the fabulous Café du Tukon, which serves delicious contemporary interpretations of local delicacies, such as a carbonara paste topped with salted dolphin fish called arayu., rather than bacon or pillows.

Batan is the main island of Batanes. Due to the turbulent waters and unpredictable weather, crossing between the Batanes Islands can be difficult. Fortunately, Batan has a lot to offer and is easily accessible via commercial flights.

It is imperative that you work with an accredited travel agency, such as IBS Tours and Travels, before arranging a trip. The agency can coordinate a car and a guide to navigate the stunning coastal highway that runs around the island.

Agencies can also arrange stops at notable sites such as Basco Lighthouse and Tayid Lighthouse, the sloping hills of Rakuh a Payaman and the colorful waters of Homoron Blue Lagoon.

It is also worth stopping in small, peaceful towns such as Mahatao and Ivana, known for their Spanish churches and bridges, as well as for Diura, the home of the mystical fisherman caste Mataw.

Weather permitting, Sabtang Island can be reached by a 40-minute ferry ride. Worth the stunning views of the Chamantad Tiñan cliffs, as well as the stone village of Chavayan where the cow, which are traditional hats made of stripped palm leaves that protect women working in the field of items.

The only real way to get there is to fly. Flights can range from 80 to 100 minutes and can be booked on Skyjet, Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines before the pandemic.

A trip to Batanes must be planned in advance and booked through accredited tour operators. The local government is very focused on sustainable tourism and the conservation of the natural and cultural heritage of the province. There are a number of rules and guidelines – such as no bikinis on the beach – that tourists must understand and follow during the trip.

While the Philippines is currently closed to international tourism, officials last month indicated interest in establishing “international travel bubbles” or travel corridors with strict health protocols with neighboring countries.

Batanes, which registered the third Covid-19 case in December 2020, is currently closed even to domestic tourists. Local authorities are exploring ways to safely reopen with 14-day quarantines and implement other health requirements.

Batanes’ “good season” runs from November to May. June-October is typhoon season and should be avoided. Travelers are advised to bring a light rain jacket for spontaneous showers and a light sweater for cool nights on cold mountain tops.